While it’s true that many things can go wrong with the shaft and bearing design, the same argument could be made for cheap wheels.
Voron Links:Ī relatively recent design, the V-King, developed by Roy Berntsen, aims to overcome the percieved limitations of round shafts and linear bearings by using V-slot extrusions and wheels. The Railcore II is also in this price class, but build costs average around $1500, so it was already out of my initial scope of consideration. Using 12v reduces the need for some adapters, for example, if you choose to use stock Noctua cooling fans.
12v may seem like an odd design decision as most newer printers are moving to a 24v configuration, but many of those are also counting on those same 24v to heat the bed. The Voron 2.1 uses mains current to heat the stationary bed, and 12v everywhere else. The Discord community is helpful, but I can’t help but feel there needs to be a better way to bridge the gap between the physical build and the final product. There is also a firmware repository on Github that might provide some clues, but for the beginner to intermediate-level builder, the only real option is to go on Discord and wade through hundreds of search results or start asking your own questions.
Hypercube printer pdf#
There is a slick PDF build guide that reminds me of Lego instructions, but it is light on text. If printing ABS is really important, you’re space-constrained, and you like that the enclosure is built into the printer frame, then the Voron may have more value for you.Īnother issue I have with the Voron is what seems to be a gap in the documentation. But if a $600 CoreXY build could lay down plastic just as well, at $1200+ you’re really hitting the law of diminishing returns. Perhaps most Voron builders have already built several 3D printers and happen to have a lot of spare parts on hand.ĭo I like the Voron? Yes, I’ve studied the plans, and it’s an awesome piece of engineering. Well, I tried pretty hard, but nothing I could spec out–even with primarily AliExpress parts–would bring the theoretical build cost below $1200. I generated a BOM spreadsheet and set to work sourcing and estimating parts with the help of a Google Sheets sourcing guide created by community members. I originally read that the Voron 2.1 could be built for roughly $600-800.
Hypercube printer upgrade#
As an upgrade to the Voron 1.6, it adds a fixed bed as well as belts and linear rails on all axes. It is a high-end DIY 3D printer with a fairly high price tag to match. The Voron 2.1 is the successor to the highly acclaimed first-generation Voron, designed by Maks Zolin. Relies on printed parts for frame rigidity Good iteration on the tried and tested C-Bot printerĬantilevered bed design may cause problems with heavier prints Large community, long track record, lots of build examples Possibility of sourcing bent/poorly machined shafts Lower than average number of printed parts requiredīed may have wobble issues in single Z-motor configurations (double Z has been added as a default option)Ĩmm X-axis shafts may have too much flex in larger builds Smaller/newer community, not many example builds Mains voltage attached to a moving bed makes me nervous Good illustrations, but not much text documentationīe prepared to print LOTS of ABS parts during buildĪ nice iteration on previous designs (HEVO, D-Bot)Īvoids potential problems with bent shafts
Comparison Table Printerĭesigned from the ground up to be enclosed and filtered (ABS) The ability to print ABS in the future would be a bonus, but not a requirement.
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